High in the treeless zone of the Wild Sky
Wilderness resides the mountain massifs of Gunn Peak (6240'),
Merchant Peak (6113'), Mt. Townsend (5405'), and Mt. Baring (6125').
All of these being the outcropping of the Index igneous, granitic
batholith. This lies east and one hour from Seattle off Highway 2.
What makes these alpine areas treeless? Snow and ice blasted by the
winds, cold temperatures on rock and soil, long enduring snow pack,
and other winter demands making for a short growing season. We also
find in this area "discontinuous arrays of geological evolution."
Retired University of Washington professor
Arthur Kruckeberg, noted botanist and geobotanist, describes the
geo-botanical agents creating the evolution of plant life in just
this type of mountainous, discontinuous arrays. In his recent book,
Geology and Plant Life: The Effects of Landforms and Rock Types on
Plants, Kruckeberg states that land forms interfacing with rock
types provide the diversity creating the basis for plant evolution.
Land forms would include mountains. Without discontinuous arrays of
geology through land forms and rock types, you will not get
evolution.
In a lecture for North Cascades Institute's
Naturalist Retreat at Sun Mountain Resort, Kruckeberg said he would
bet a flat world, which he calls surface homogeneity, would
demonstrate a planet with nothing other than sand and bacteria. Or
as he more delightfully questions, "Would life in any degree of
diversity have evolved on a global billiard ball?" "The fundamental
concept is that the North Cascades from Snoqualmie Pass to the
Canadian border is a jumble, a complex of geological phenomenon that
is still defying geologists." Plant life diversity represents itself
well in these rugged mountains of the North Cascades including
mountain areas of the Wild Sky Wilderness.
Dominating the terrains south of Snoqualmie
Pass are young volcanic rocks from lava flows and vulcanism on Mount
Rainier, Mount Adams, Mount St. Helens. According to Rowland Tabor
and Ralph Hauge, Geology of the North Cascades, north of Snoqualmie
Pass the volcanic rock has been mostly eroded away leaving rugged
metamorphic and igneous rock formations exposed. According to
Kruckeberg, this would encourage finding more of our rare and
unusual plants north of Snoqualmie Pass. More plant mass, however,
occurs south of the pass with its more volcanic-type soils and lower
mountains.
And the closer we get to the border of Canada
with its geologic jumble of mountains the greater would be the
number of unusual plants. "Manifesting again the effect of complex
geology creating local habitats." More plants south of Snoqualmie
Pass would be found, but fewer of the rare and out of the ordinary
plants. Isolation, rock-type soils, and stress, according to
Kruckeberg, in the higher, rugged, treeless terrain in the north
plays an evolutionary role in creating new species.
High country such as the mountains of the
Wild Sky Wilderness is where these out of the ordinary and rare
plants prevail. This would be true even though the forests of the
lower reaches would have fuel for more tonnage of plant life from
photosynthesis. Kruckeberg suggests that wet, lush, and forested
areas would not have the diversity created by the interface of
rocks, treeless slopes, and high mountains.
Three local individuals, Elroy Burnett, Bob
Hubbard, and Mildred Arnot, have hiked extensively around much of
the Wild Sky area with an eye toward identifying the plants and
understanding the plant communities. All three have done inventory
work for the Forest Service and National Park Service. Burnett in
particular has done quite a bit of work surveying for rare and
endangered plants, mosses, and lichens including helping to assemble
reference collections for the National Park Service, Forest Service,
and the University of Washington. While Hubbard went to college to
pursue a degree in forestry, he also fell in love with botany and
entomology along the way. He discovered that all three intermeshed
beautifully.
Arnot has been a botanizing friend of Burnett
for many years and has the discerning eyes that many botanists only
dream of - eyes, according to her two friends, "that can spot the
almost vaporously vague differences that separate similar species of
difficult-to-key genera. (like Carex, a genus, according to
Hitchcock and Cronquist's, Flora of the Pacific Northwest,
with 134 different species in it in the Northwest.)" Burnett,
Hubbard, and Arnott have also worked with Washington State Parks to
put together a list of plants (over 300 species) found around the
area of the Index Town Wall, a scenic cliff and rock climber
destination located above Index town. The Town Wall was recently
incorporated into a 1300 acre new state park called "Forks of the
Sky State Park.
If we were to journey with Hubbard, Burnett,
and Arnot, this journey will take us through the forest zones from
the valley bottoms near Index with its elevation about 500 feet to
the subalpine parks of Gunn Peak and Mt. Townsend. As one travels
upward in elevation the composition of the vegetative communities
"...almost inevitably changes with some species dropping out and
others persisting." This universal effect was explained by
Kruckeberg to Hubbard once, referring to a slope above a trail where
he met him. There are many plants which have been found up high, but
not down low, and a few plants with extremely wide elevation
distributions. "Composition of vegetation almost inevitably changes
with some species dropping out and others persisting to the ridge at
the upper contours of the slope."
In an interview with Hubbard in Index he had
these comments about diversity from the North Fork Skykomish valley
floor beyond Index:
"Where it is uniformly forested, you'll
also find less diversity in plant communities under the trees;
it is the diversity of site conditions which creates and
maintains a diversity of plant species. Under dense conifer
stands there may be no green plants on the forest floor at all,
due to the deep shade. Under mixed conifer/deciduous stands more
light penetrates, and more plants can take advantage of it.
Under deciduous stands like alder or maple forests even more
sunlight penetrates, and a veritable hodgepodge of plants can
find good living conditions.
In meadows, along roadsides and river
gravel bars, the sunlit environment is friendly to even more
plants, the ones which can't make it in partial shade. It is the
harshest environment which seems to have the most rare and
endangered plants associated with them: the acidic bogs, the
thin, rocky soils of high elevations, and nutrient-challenged
soils of certain rock types, such as serpentine. Forest cover -
even the botanically-diverse forest cover of old growth - tends
to "round off" environmental extremes; under the trees the winds
are muted, the light is dimmed. The temperature doesn't get as
hot during the day nor the cold at night, when compared with
open ground. The soils are deeper, and being shaded, don't dry
out as fast or as much as the shallower, droughtier soils of
open ground. Very few of the state's rare and endangered plants
are specifically associated with old growth forests, when
compared to marginal or harsh habitats."
Professor Kruckeberg in his The Natural
History of the Puget Sound Region says the drainage of the
Skykomish River affords a superlative example of micro-habitats over
minimal horizontal distances. "Slope and compass exposure create
particular environments that define the character of the plant
cover."
So from this elevation from 500 feet to 2000
feet, generally considered the Western Hemlock zone, what might our
trio find for us if we journey with them? From the town of Index
itself and up the North Fork Skykomish River the trees are mostly
second growth trees but go to stands of 80-years old predominating
with an abundance of Big-leaf maple, Black cottonwood, and Red
alder. In places pure stands of conifers reside, although there are
mostly mixed stands of conifers. In the North Fork a population of
Alaska yellow cedar is found at an unusually low elevation (600
feet) near the mouth of Lewis Creek. At the same elevation an
occasional Grand fir and Spruce can be spotted. Western hemlock
abounds with Douglas fir, but Pacific silver fir is the most likely
true fir to be found on the valley floor.
Old growth forest between Troublesome Creek
and Garland Hot Springs provides additional low elevation plant
variety. Many shade tolerant plants can be found here, and in
similar old growth found between Garland Springs and Goblin Creek.
Some of the Douglas firs in these groves are quite large and
ancient. One Douglas fir after coring was found to be about 700
years old and another near Silver Creek cored out at 800 years of
age. Large and monstrous old Western red cedar are found in this old
forest. Now we start seeing more Pacific yew while up in the sunlit
out-croppings an occasional Shore pine and very occasional Western
white pine with the more common forest trees may be discovered.
In the moist, shady coniferous forest is
found a saxifrage, Youth on Age (Tolmiea menziesii), which
flowers wild are more beautiful than its houseplant counterpart.
Near Garland Hot Springs in the North Fork Skykomish River area,
Round leaved rein-orchids (platanthera orbiculata) have been
found by Hubbard at 1,800 feet elevation under old growth trees.
Also, Micki McNaughten, doing a plant survey for the Forest Service
in 1998 and 2000, found two populations of the species in the Salmon
Creek area. These were found when researchers scouted out Spotted
owl in old growth. Hubbard tells us this unusual plant species was
listed by the Forest Service as a Survey and Manage species, but may
also be listed by the state of Washington. Basal leaves of the Round
leaved rein orchid are flat on the ground. Rein refers to strap
shaped lip and spur.
While still on the lower reaches of our
journey, we turn to Elroy Burnett and Mildred Arnot to look at the
diversity within plant communities at lower elevations near Index of
500 feet to 2,000 feet. Index Town Wall outside the city of Index
provides us our representative look at what may be found elsewhere
in the Wild Sky Wilderness at similar elevations. Botanizing around
the Town Wall of Index is not an easy accomplishment. Yet for a
period of several years, the Town Wall has had a fascination for
Burnett and Arnot. They made forays into various habitats of the
town wall and adjoining hillsides. They returned every couple of
weeks throughout the growing season to catch early, middle, and late
appearing plants and later, the mosses and lichens.
Nowhere in this area, they believe, have so
many species of plants been so thoroughly identified. This they
completed in 1994 while working on the creation of a state park on
the western outskirts of the city. The list of plants identified by
Burnett and Arnot have been considerable. On the Index Town Wall and
adjoining hillsides the vascular plants, sedges, grasses, and likens
being identified have been numerous. They have keyed out 129 species
of flowers, 14 species of trees, 5 species of vines, 26 grasses, 12
ferns, 51 species of mosses, and 171 species of lichens by Burnett.
Both Burnett and Hubbard consider their botanical shortcoming to be
sedges and rushes. They extol the expertise of Arnot on these
species. Arnot has identified 20 species of sedges and rushes on the
Town Wall area.
Burnett tells us his specialty is lichens.
At the time of submission of the report to the Washington State
Parks and Recreation Commission studying the 1500 acres for a park,
Burnett had identified 27 species of lichens as being on the rare
list for the state of Washington. Many of these lichens have since
been de-listed. On that list would be Blood whiskers lichen (Chenotheca
cf ferruginea), Broadleaf tarpaper lichen (Collema
nigrescens), Catpaw lichen (Nephroma resupinatum), Dogpaw
lichen (Nephroma laevigatum), and, not listed as rare, but
interesting in name, Dr. Seuss tree lichen (Microcalicium ahlneri).
Throughout the Wild Sky, one may come
across a number of plant species of interest. At mid elevation Micki
McNaughten has encountered Gnome plant (Hemitomes congestum).
To encounter this species involves luck. Never listed as a rare
plant, it has been placed on the state of Washington monitor or
watch list. Found deep in coniferous forests Gnome plant is the only
plant in its genus in western North America. It is sometimes
confused with Fringed pinesap (Pleuricospora fimbriolata)
which is also found in similar heavy-shaded habitats. Found hiding
underneath Devil's club (Oplopanox horridum) in moist areas
is a rare bedstraw (Galium kamtchaticum), although more usual
to find in the Madder family in this area would be a more common
Tall-rough bedstraw (Galium asparine).Its fruits and stems
are covered with hooks to snag on animals for dispersal. Along with
species of huckleberries, Devil's club, whose spiny stems produce
horrible, infecting wounds, is a vexing, common understory in wet
sites in the forest.
At least one rare plant has been reported
in the vicinity of Lake Isabel. This plant Asplenium-leaved
goldthread (Coptis aspleniifolia), a member of the buttercup
family and according to C.L. Hitchkok and A. Cronquist in Flora
of the Pacific Northwest, only three known populations inhabit
the Cascades. Hubbard's mentioning of this situation to the Forest
Service some years ago may have helped thwart an effort to lower the
level of the lake to service a proposed small hydroelectric project.
The fluctuating lake levels would have dried out the goldthread's
habitat and possibly killed the largest and most healthy population
of this plant in the state.
Sitka valerian (Valeriana sitchensis)
is an abundant plant throughout the Wild Sky Wilderness, but its
relative Scouler's valerian (Valeriana scouleri), an unusual
plant, has been found by Burnett only on the Wallace River. Another
rather unusual plant, Alpine bog swertia (Swertia perennis),
a member of the gentian family, has been keyed out at Twin Lakes and
Poodle Dog Pass at the western edge of the wilderness. It is usually
found along the Alaskan coast, so it is unusual to find it in the
Washington Cascades.
Jeffrey pine, a common California tree, is
typically associated with serpentine derived-soils. Burnett believes
he has found serpentine out-croppings at Red Mountain and Red Gulch
near Elk Creek at the western edge of the wilderness. Jeffery pine,
a Caifrornia tree, is one of the indicator species for serpentine
but its northern limit is Southwest Oregon. Ponderosa pine seldom
grows on serpentine and its rock soils, for there is not sufficient
minerals to support lush growth. Serpentine rock, a special area of
Kruckeberg's expertise, is a classic example of his theory about
rock types and soils, created from the rocks, influencing plant
species and plant communities.
Kruckeberg was encountered at Teanaway on a
trail that heads toward Mt. Stuart. He pointed out some stretches of
serpentine and noted that minerals in the rock and resulting soil
were primarily iron, magnesium, and silica - a combination not
conducive to growing plants. This combination results in dwarfism
and reduction in leaf size. However, there are plants, such as
Jeffrey pine, that seem to have an affinity for it. For example
Buckwheat (Erigonum pyrolaefolium) is common on serpentine,
but it is also found elsewhere. Some plants, such as Buckwheat,
would be local species, but Kruckeberg's research has pointed out
significant differences- a racial differentiation - in the species
to indicate that these plants were not emanating from local plants.
They may come from more distant floral elements and in some
instances a mile or so away.
Kruckeberg pointed to one fern, Shasta
holly fern (Polystichum lemmoni), which is exclusively found
in the Pacific Northwest only on serpentine. Asked how this fern
could be found so widespread, Kruckeberg pointed out that airborne
spores do the trick. To this he states Beijerinch's Law "Everything
is everywhere, but the environment selects." This fern regenerates
from the spores, and as he noted, so do a couple of other ferns
regenerate on serpentine. These, however, can be found on other
soils, too. The answer as to why and how endemic floral seeds spread
and regenerate on serpentine from distant places is still
unanswered.
In our journey above 2,000 feet we drive to
the trail head to Barclay Lake. From Barclay Lake's east end we turn
north. Hubbard and Burnett must find a way north to Eagle Lake and
Mount Townsend on a remnant trail climbing through the Pacific
Silver Fir Zone. We have moved from the creek bottom and Barclay
Lake traversing toward the high meadows. As we go up in elevation we
find plant life more stressed, since plant life must respond to
environmental conditions.
Along this trail to Barclay Lake, if we
look closely, we might find a few rare species of lichens - the
interestingly named lichen Tickertape bone (Hypogymnia
duplicata), a species that occurs primarily on Hemlocks and
Silver firs and (Lobaria linita), a leaf lichen on
mossy rock and trees and (Pseudocephallaria rainierensis).
Also, in the same zone during a similar
study by Micki McNaughten for the USFS were areas particularly rich
in the terrestrial orchid family. Fairy slipper (Calypso
bulbosa), Coral root orchids (Corallorhiza maculata), Western coral root (Corallorhiza mertensiana), Rattlesnake
plantain (Goodyera oblongifolia), Northern bog orchid
(Platanthera hyperborea), and Heart -Leaved Twayblade (Listera
caurina). Several of these plants have lost their photosynthesis
independence.
Some other rich finds in this zone by
McNaughten were Leathery grape fern (Botrychium multifidum,), Gnome plant (Hemitomes congestum), and Tiger lily (Lilium
columbianum). Another uncommon flower found by McNaughten on the
north-facing slopes of Salmon Creek was Mountainbells (Stenathium
occidentale). In this elevation in coniferous forests are often
found Indian pipe( Monotropa uniflora) and Pinedrops (Pterospora
andromeda). These two grow in decayed vegetable matter and are
notable for their lack of chlorophyll.
Avalanche paths are common throughout the
Pacific Silver Fir Zone and the Mountain Hemlock Zone. Travelling
through these on the Barclay Lake to Eagle Lake trail, one can find
a number of sunlight-loving plants. These vertical gashes of
non-forested vegetation with their dense thickets of Slide alder (Alnus
sitchensis) will usually have associated plants such as vine
maple, huckleberry, serviceberry, and thimbleberry. On talus slopes
and around outcrops Oregon boxwood (Pachystima myrsinites),
Mountain huckleberry (Vaccinium membranaceum), Alaska
huckleberry (vaccinium alaskaense), Small flowered penstemon
(Penstemon procerus), Cinquefoil (Potentilla gracilis),
Phlox (Phlox diffusa), Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
and the often weedy Pearly everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea)may occur.
Water loving herbs such as members of
saxifrage family, Yellow willow-herb (Epilobium luteum),
Monkey flower (Mimulus guttatus), and Bluebells (Mertensia
paniculata) occur along the edges of Eagle Lake and undoubtedly
other lakes - Sunset, Sims, Fourth of July and several little ponds
that support fish. These lakes along with Eagle Lake form a string
over the other side of Townsend Mountain having been explored by
Burnett in his fishing days. The number of small lakes in the Wild
Sky is surprising. Also, these plants may be seen on the bog area
east of Eagle Lake along with grasses and low shrubs, willow,
Labrador tea (Ledum groenlandicum), and Bog laurel (Kalmia
microphylla). Here, too, one might find Arrowleaf groundsel (Senicio
triangularis), Elephant head ( Pedicularis groenlandica),
Marsh marigold (Caltha biflora), Arnica (Arnica latifolia),
Shooting stars (Dodecatheon jeffreyi), Foam flower (Tiarella
trifoliata) and Trillium (Trillium ovatum).
Other vegetation also struggles while
surviving in dwarf condition. In traversing the slopes of Townsend
Mountain (5936') from Eagle Lake (3888'). A transition of Mountain
Hemlock and sub alpine zones is encountered where small gnarled and
deformed trees endure by facing into the wind. In this sub-alpine
transition zone, severe conditions affect all the plants including
mountain heather species, spiraea, lupines, penstemon, and alpine
grasses. These have been known to evolve biotic mechanisms for the
severe life conditions. This is consistent with Kruckeberg's theory
on effects of landforms and rocks on plants.
The upper parts of the Mountain Hemlock
Zone - sometimes referred to as the Krumholtz - are clumped and
scattered openings creating subalpine parkland. At Stone Lake prior
to arriving on the Eagle Creek trail to Eagle Lake, the trees
consist of three interspersed, isolated, and mixed stands of
conifers - Sub-alpine fir, Alaska cedar, and especially Mountain
hemlock. Eagle Lake is set in a great example of this parkland. We
expect to find here Sitka mountain ash (Sorbus scopulina),
low Shiny-leafed spirea, and huckleberry species. The low Blue
huckleberry is scientifically well-named (Vaccinium deliciosum)
and lives up to its promise.
High elevation alpine botanical expeditions
made by our pair illustrate Kruckeberg's theories on plant life
diversity, rock forms interfacing with complex geological land form
phenomena producing rare and unusual plants. Hubbard once climbed to
the high meadows of Heybrook Ridge west of Gunn Peak finding 60
species of blooming plants and 95 total species of plants. This is a
great variety of flora to find on any single day's hike. This
represented a climb of 3,000 to 4,000 feet out of the bottom of
Barclay Creek valley.
In the 1950's a Navy plane crashed on
nearby Merchant Peak After that event the Navy established a camp
and training area including a flag pole near Gunn Peak. The camp no
longer exists, but they left a still visible, but overgrown, trail
reached first by crossing the creek below the Barclay Lake trailhead
and then veering toward the slopes left of a prominent waterfall.
Hubbard observed the high mountain floral displays at the peak of
their flowering. We will probably see many of those plants as we
climb to the edge of the Mountain Hemlock Zone and into the parkland
that follows.
With this elevation gain we have
encountered different types of vegetation revealing major
micro-environmental differences. In coming through the Mountain
Hemlock Zone we may observe the bent and crooked trees called
Krumholz facing the prevailing direction of the winds. Eventually we
come to the edge of the upper montane forest, or timberline.
Finding Moss campion (Silene acaulis)
will now be our search and challenge - a flower of elegant pink
whose flattened leaves and stems make it look like a moss and a
cushion plant. If we are to find Moss campion, we must climb to the
highest rocky slopes of Gunn Peak and look in the rocky crevices and
cracks. To find this shy little flower will make the journey worth
the effort.
First, we must break through the forests of
Mountain Hemlock, Subalpine fir, and Alaska red cedar. Openness
under tree canopy and other shrub cover widens, making increased
plant and wild flower observations constant. The growing season up
here is short and to survive many plants adopt a low cushion like
form. Dwarfism is another strategy for coping with the cold. Many
plants have evolved tiny leaves and tiny flowers. Tolmie's saxifrage
(Saxifraga tolomiei) provides a good example. In this same
area within the understory, dominating are members of the sunflower,
rose and heather families. This is a place where we may find Bear
grass (Xerophyllum tenax) and among the shrubs the tasty
Black mountain huckleberry (Vaccinium membranaceum).
We need to observe this sub-alpine zone
with its high sloping meadows and open spaces to see if there are
seedlings of alpine fir and mountain hemlock starting to invade. It
happened before in the early 20th Century caused by warming of the
planet.
As we pass into the sub-alpine zone a
thousand or more feet below the summit of Gunn Peak, one of our
first obvious observations is a tufted evergreen shrub or heather.
The dominant species of heather is a White mountain heather Cassiope
(Cassiope mertensiana) in some places and Pink Mountain
heather (Phyllodoce empetriformis) in others. If we have
arrived early after the spring melt, we should find Trilliums (trillium
ovatum), Spreading phlox (Phlox diffusa), and David's
penstemon (Penstemon davidsonii)sprawled in abundance about
this alpine garden as well as white flowered Sitka valerian (Valeriana
sitichenis).
Some of the subalpine beauties we may
discover within the Mountain Hemlock transition zone may be Alaska
harebells (Campanula lasiocarpa), Mountain artemisias (Artemisia
trifurcata), and various members of the sunflower family. While
Elephant's head (Pedicularis groenlandica) is also found near
streams at lower elevations, its close relative Bird's-beak
lousewort (Pedicularis orinthoryncha) with its purple upper
lip is typically found at high elevations. For some reason or other
Glacier lilies (Erythronium grandiflorum) have been found in
only one isolated spot in the Wild Sky Wilderness on Ragged Ridge
near the Kromona Mine.
Wild flowers, insects, and Rufous
hummingbirds are part of the complex network of this subalpine
ecosystem. When we spot Red columbine (Aquilegia formosa), we
immediately look for the hummingbird, for this is his favorite
source of mountain nectar. Looking for this swift-avian-flying
bullet is not easy. Often it buzzes you to alert you to its
presence. With a red pack, red kerchief, or red hat, they will
usually spot you and sometimes even when you are climbing on a
widespread snowfield or glacier. The flower of the Red Columbine
fails to be attractive to insects, since the flower is odorless with
deep tubes. The ecosystem provides exclusivity for the Rufous
hummingbird. What is he doing at this elevation? It is hard to know
other than going where food is provided. He is most likely a
migrant, since the male Rufous hummingbird begins heading in July
for his winter home in Mexico across the Cascades and even the
Rockies. His migration route in spring takes the Rufous up the
Pacific Coast and not into the mountains.
Other flowers we should look for among the
many in the subalpine zone include Sitka valerian (Valerian
sitichensis), Common harebell or Bluebells-of-Scotland (Campanula
rotundifolia), Alpine lupine (Lupinus lepidus lobbii),
Fleabane (Erigeron peregrinus), Cliff paintbrush (Castilleja
rupicola), Windflower (Anemone occidentalis), and one of
the more common flowers of the subalpine zone, Diverse-leafed
cinquefoil (Potentilla diversifolia). Kruckeberg informs us
that there are 50 species of lupine in North America. "Once you have
a structure function that works well in nature, then you will get
countless variations of it. This is part of the Darwinian
evolutionary success story." What applies to lupines also applies to
composite flower heads, leading to a wide variety of composites
occurring above timberline.
The alpine and rocky summit areas of Gunn
Peak showcase the floral and plant vitality of the Wild Sky
Wilderness, illustrating Kruckeberg's thesis regarding geological
land forms and flowers. Evolution is at work. As we climb into the
high alpine zone just beneath the peak with its talus and rock
outcropping all the way to the summit, we find more plant species,
some of which are unusual and rare. Among the loose rock, scree, or
talus may be found Davidson's penstemon species, (Penstemon
davidsonii). In dense mats, dwarfed and prostrate to the ground,
is the most characteristic alpine shrub, Common juniper (Juniperus
communis var. montana), whose variations are the only Juniper
found circumpolar around the northern hemisphere.
Two other common denominators of the alpine
are Partridge foot (Luetka pectinata), a low mat-like plant,
and the wide ranging Sitka Valerian (Valeriana sitchensis).
Alpine speedwell (Veronica wormskjoldii) has been found by
Burnett in the high alpine meadows and rocky slopes. Found near the
summits of the peaks of the Wild Sky are two unusual plants, Alaska
harebell (Campanua lasiocorpa), and Sagewort (Artemisia
trifucata) The latter found by Burnett on the top of Mt. Index.
This latter find is an unusual discovery with its frequency of
identification being rare.
Even here in the final summit area dwarfed
plants may persevere on a rock lip or crevice filled with soil
created mostly from eroding rock. We look for the Moss campion (Silene
acaulis), our favored goal, in the crevices and cracks of Gunn
Peak's final 200 feet of rock. Some botanists believe moss campion
was continuously widespread until it was forced into refuges above
the mountain glacial ice. If not the Moss campion, then a Purple
mountain saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) with its flowers
and matted branches trailing over the high cliffs and rocks. Two
penstemon species are also crevice plants, (Penstemon rupicola
and p. davidsonii). Persevering here, also, it is possible to
find species such as asters and fleabane. Arctic willows may become
an unexpected surprise when their flowers appear in dense mats into
the upper reaches of the Alpine zone of Gunn, Merchant, Baring, and
Townsend.
The Wild Sky Wilderness provides a
diversified mosaic and cornucopia of plant life. The discoveries and
words related here in no way attempt to be definitive. Elroy
Burnett, Bob Hubbard, Mildred Arnot, and Micki McNaughten have done
wonderful botanical and extensive studies of the area. They would be
the first to tell you the story is not over, not even theirs. There
are many discoveries to be made. This stands to reason, for this is
an area that qualifies under Arthur Kruckeberg's theory of how land
forms (mountain rock types in particular) help shape the plant life
of this area. As Kruckeberg would point out, plants persists and
evolve in just this type discontinuous array of mountainous
landforms we find in the Wild Sky Wilderness.
Note: The author is indebted
to Bob Hubbard and Elroy Burnett for their expertise, providing
information through the interviews, and for their considerable
editing.